Soon after alighting from the Shatabdi, the inevitable tete-a-tete ensued with the eager auto driver. Our man flaunting the adorable [nay ‘maast’] flourish in his words, that one gets quickly wont to in Amritsar [infact whole of Punjab]. Thanks to him playing the 'tripadvisor', we checked in into a hotel bang opposite the Golden Temple. I will not elaborate upon the events that led us into that, that has enough masala to qualify as a post in itself.
It was 2330 hours by the time we reached our cosy room; but in 10 mins we were out again in the open. Eagerly mingling with the endearingly mildly chilly Amritsar evening. And quite keen to have a peek at the Golden Temple. GT never fails to amaze me – the courtesy, the cleanliness, the camaraderie – as soon as one enters the temple premises. The vibrations reverberate rhythmically. As we walk up and down the stairs – Lo! And behold. The scintillating golden twinkle of the monument and the lilting [can’t help the adjective] reflection in slightly playful waters is just breathtaking. I wanted time to just stand there and soak it in and let time stand still. Soulful delight. In its most pristine form. The melodious rants, the call of the water, the sparse milieu and the mild chill slowly woke me up from my reverie. And I just walked around absorbing the vibrations to the full. After I guess an hour, quite contended we walked back to CJ. GT simply stands out, for someone not unfamiliar with the cultivated casual disdain of the priests or the general unkempt precincts of some of the temples in India. Must visit for everyone – especially under lights.
Went back to the room and ungrudgingly allowed some work mails to intrude my sanity. Work is worship. Its but natural that one works in a spiritual abode, with as much willingness as ever :). Next morn, not too surprisingly – I gave the snooze the pass and just switched off the alarm. By the time I woke up the sun was quite up. It was time to start planning for the tryst with the hallowed portals of Khalsa College [the main purpose of our visit]….but then I was a bit greedy…and wanted a bit more of the taste of Amritsar’s history.
I just slipped into the streets and headed straight to Jalianawala Bagh. The place was already bustling with eager tourists and locals lazing in the lawns. I knew the tid-bits well – been there done it before. So went straight to the lawn, did a couple of Surya Namaskars to inject a dayful’s sprite to the timid back – before scurrying back to the hotel room.
A quick half-an-hour and twas time to mull over break-fast. Thanks to Probal’s culinary enterprise we were quite sure that we would do a roadside dhaba. We expectantly ventured out looking for a joint and were instructed to ‘Bhai …… Kulcha Shop’…actually you cant miss-it – on main road [alley] that leads upto the GT and about 50-100 meters from the temple [I hope I have got distance correct]. This is a 14X10 dingy, with about 10 covers and soot washed! roof. But all the doubts end there. The delighted look in the sardars and sardarnis savouring the kulchas, the tandoor in full whistle, the easy going proprietor & his lieutenants and the opportunity to eat fresh, authentic, almost ‘exotic’, local cuisine was enough for us to want this kulcha even more.
With a bit a dallying, I decided on the Four mix [mix of aloo, gobi, paneer and patti]. And with lot more certainty decided to stand outside the shop and enjoy the trickling wintry rays along with the kulcha. And enjoy I did. Every bit. The kulcha [tandoori, parantha, phulka etc such beautiful names – why does the English language call all as bread]. This would qualify as my nicer breakfast experiences. Could not help but wonder that I just love proven roadside joints. Especially if they serve authentic local cuisine. Can a 5 star ever come close to the delight associated with such an experience?
The best part of breakfast was the dessert from the hawker who sold platefuls of freshly cut papayas. The adorable Punjabi flourish was in full flow – as our man bantered Probal for being wary of a having full plate. As if a sardar encouraging a timid opponent to be baited to step into the akhara. For the story – Probal decided to go for the full plate. But did feel full and left it half way down. And to be fair to our man, he looked hale and hearty and fit. He claimed he was 70 years old but looked not more than 50.
For the scorecard sake the morn tryst with Amritsar - breakfast, brunch or lunch – whatever you call it, was Rs. 100 for two. But for the memory sake…I ll be happy to add a couple of zeros to the right.
That was Amritsar then – the bulk of it. The rest I ll zip thru. We went to Khalsa college, Probal floored them as usual, every time I see a new dimension to his assault. Good going! Then we did a quick do at a CCD [thanks to the diversities of our India] with another potential ‘partner’ [as we euphemistically christen a client]. Then the rush back to the station and another evening in the Shatabdi. Mainly busying myself with mails and lovely oldie goldies of Lata, Asha and other from the Public Address System. Nice toppings from Razia Sultana, Umrao Jaan and Izzajat.
New Delhi
Feb 20, 2010
It was 2330 hours by the time we reached our cosy room; but in 10 mins we were out again in the open. Eagerly mingling with the endearingly mildly chilly Amritsar evening. And quite keen to have a peek at the Golden Temple. GT never fails to amaze me – the courtesy, the cleanliness, the camaraderie – as soon as one enters the temple premises. The vibrations reverberate rhythmically. As we walk up and down the stairs – Lo! And behold. The scintillating golden twinkle of the monument and the lilting [can’t help the adjective] reflection in slightly playful waters is just breathtaking. I wanted time to just stand there and soak it in and let time stand still. Soulful delight. In its most pristine form. The melodious rants, the call of the water, the sparse milieu and the mild chill slowly woke me up from my reverie. And I just walked around absorbing the vibrations to the full. After I guess an hour, quite contended we walked back to CJ. GT simply stands out, for someone not unfamiliar with the cultivated casual disdain of the priests or the general unkempt precincts of some of the temples in India. Must visit for everyone – especially under lights.
Went back to the room and ungrudgingly allowed some work mails to intrude my sanity. Work is worship. Its but natural that one works in a spiritual abode, with as much willingness as ever :). Next morn, not too surprisingly – I gave the snooze the pass and just switched off the alarm. By the time I woke up the sun was quite up. It was time to start planning for the tryst with the hallowed portals of Khalsa College [the main purpose of our visit]….but then I was a bit greedy…and wanted a bit more of the taste of Amritsar’s history.
I just slipped into the streets and headed straight to Jalianawala Bagh. The place was already bustling with eager tourists and locals lazing in the lawns. I knew the tid-bits well – been there done it before. So went straight to the lawn, did a couple of Surya Namaskars to inject a dayful’s sprite to the timid back – before scurrying back to the hotel room.
A quick half-an-hour and twas time to mull over break-fast. Thanks to Probal’s culinary enterprise we were quite sure that we would do a roadside dhaba. We expectantly ventured out looking for a joint and were instructed to ‘Bhai …… Kulcha Shop’…actually you cant miss-it – on main road [alley] that leads upto the GT and about 50-100 meters from the temple [I hope I have got distance correct]. This is a 14X10 dingy, with about 10 covers and soot washed! roof. But all the doubts end there. The delighted look in the sardars and sardarnis savouring the kulchas, the tandoor in full whistle, the easy going proprietor & his lieutenants and the opportunity to eat fresh, authentic, almost ‘exotic’, local cuisine was enough for us to want this kulcha even more.
With a bit a dallying, I decided on the Four mix [mix of aloo, gobi, paneer and patti]. And with lot more certainty decided to stand outside the shop and enjoy the trickling wintry rays along with the kulcha. And enjoy I did. Every bit. The kulcha [tandoori, parantha, phulka etc such beautiful names – why does the English language call all as bread]. This would qualify as my nicer breakfast experiences. Could not help but wonder that I just love proven roadside joints. Especially if they serve authentic local cuisine. Can a 5 star ever come close to the delight associated with such an experience?
The best part of breakfast was the dessert from the hawker who sold platefuls of freshly cut papayas. The adorable Punjabi flourish was in full flow – as our man bantered Probal for being wary of a having full plate. As if a sardar encouraging a timid opponent to be baited to step into the akhara. For the story – Probal decided to go for the full plate. But did feel full and left it half way down. And to be fair to our man, he looked hale and hearty and fit. He claimed he was 70 years old but looked not more than 50.
For the scorecard sake the morn tryst with Amritsar - breakfast, brunch or lunch – whatever you call it, was Rs. 100 for two. But for the memory sake…I ll be happy to add a couple of zeros to the right.
That was Amritsar then – the bulk of it. The rest I ll zip thru. We went to Khalsa college, Probal floored them as usual, every time I see a new dimension to his assault. Good going! Then we did a quick do at a CCD [thanks to the diversities of our India] with another potential ‘partner’ [as we euphemistically christen a client]. Then the rush back to the station and another evening in the Shatabdi. Mainly busying myself with mails and lovely oldie goldies of Lata, Asha and other from the Public Address System. Nice toppings from Razia Sultana, Umrao Jaan and Izzajat.
New Delhi
Feb 20, 2010
very nice....kudos
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