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Essaouria – Soulful Music and a Transcendence…

The Moroccan itinerary was from the very beginning designed to depend upon providence. No more than a lazy browsing to explore the options available. In fact, I just knew I was flying and flying out of Casablanca… I knew that we were booked at Fez for two nights, and that’s it. A big blur, thereafter. That’s why, trudging along Francophone Morocco was as much hilarious, as it was exhilarating.

Essaouria, I recollected in hindsight, had popped up the only time I had goggled Morocco – was back in Feb/Mar. It had faded into oblivion as much as my Morocco travel planning got little bandwidth!!....but then providence had to intervene. We bumped into very enthusiastic co-travellers who were keen to help us with their tid-bits on where to go and how much time to spend. Essaouria, popped up again. The prospect of spending time a picturesque beach/port time with a salubatory clime was exciting. The tiring, info packed 2 days at Fez sealed the deal. Chilling in Essaouria seemed more preferable to chasing the history at Mt Atlas and Sahara desert [playing the compulsive tourists of scurrying around was never the priority]. And so we landed at Essaouria, via Marrakech from Fez – to soak in the sea…ah!...it turned out to be much much more.

We took some time to feel comfy, shifting from one pad to another. But once we were done, there no stopping. The Medina of Fez is culturally a dramatic opposite to the Medina at Fez. While Medina - Fez is serious history, embellished with well arrayed shops of all kinds, Essaouria is all bustling with bindaas tourists of all hues and creases – who are dancing to the fizz of impromptu atmosphere. No fixed itinerary. A variety of eating nooks with delicious Moroccan fares [incl varieties of fish!!!], an assortment of options [music, pottery, footwear, paintings, spices, perfumes, antiques, woodwork, textiles..] and beach vantage points to choose from. Not to mention the stunningly disarming people who inhabit the spirit elevating abode.

We started with a music shop, late evening – that took to our tryst with a variety of music - Moroccon, Arabic and Gnaou [local] and dear friend Youssouf. Gnaou [hope I have got the spelling right] is an instrument which has elements of both strings and percussion. Unique ringing sound. Youssouf its exponent and our teacher with innocent, childlike looks and exuberance, made up a heady experience. Truly soul transforming!!!..The bonus was the strut like dance form that is an intrinsic accompaniment of the music.

Talking of personalities, another person who made an indelible impression is Omar. The camel guide. Omar has not passed school. But he can speak English, French and Spanish – in addition to Arabic. He claims that he learnt all the languages in the sea. He talks of Indian / Arabic culture and places with lot of assurance – which he claims to have picked up from tourists and movies. He was in Jim Hendricks for a month. He gives camel rides to tourists for living. Quite apparently a very modest living, but very rich with experience and wisdom. The camel ride was probably the side show. The interesting loads of anecdotes looked to be the main fare.

I was tempted to include the mobile nos of these two interesting persons, for other future travelers to take benefit of. But decided against at the last minute. Will be happy to share with anyone who wants though ;).

There many other people and shops to talk about [and numbers to share] specializing in food [tajine and couscous are delicious Morcoccan delicacies], spices/perfumes [argan oil, musk, saffron and a variety of spices are affordably available], antiques/decorative items [decorative wood is a local industry]

Essaouria’s beach is just mouth watering. But with some many lovely things to talk about. I am playing this down. But the beach is lovely. Smooth, not crowded. I could have sat there for hours together without any ennui. Easily one of the best beaches I have been too. Good for bathing, water sport or quite reflection. The choice is yours.

Because of this compelling combination on the plate, one realizes that Essaouria is the adopted home of many people who have stayed back to paint, to write a book or just to enjoy this lovely place amidst enchanting people.


Casablanca – Dubai - Delhi [Inflight/Lounges]
Jun 21, 2010

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